Archive for March, 2009

This is not Tanzania! This is Tanzania, Land of Kilimanjaro!

Tuesday, March 31st, 2009

The title of this post comes from Bakiri, our very animated, very lovable partner at the Institute of Accountancy. I argued that it should not be “land of Kilimanjaro,” but rather “land of Bakiri,” but his modesty, for once, was too much.

Quick updates:

  • Most bizarre item I’ve seen strapped on a bicycle rack: a lawn mower. The rider looked a bit unsteady navigating the speed bumps on Njiro road, but he never lost his balance, and drivers, surprisingly, gave him wide bearth. Runners up for the award are: a tower of six suitcases that dwarfed the rider, and a large computer printer.
  • Fring has been indispensable in keeping in touch, as it usually much easier to carry the iPhone than the laptop and find a WiFi connection. Now that Skype is available for iPhone, however, I think I’ll switch, assuming I can ever finish downloading the app.
  • I made arrangements today with a colleague at IAA to visit his uncle’s coffee farm outside Arusha. I’m unbelievable excited for this, possibly more excited than I am to see Zanzibar. His uncle is on the Tanzania Coffee Board, so you know it’s legit. Expect me to come back with 50kg sacks of coffee.

The Team

Sunday, March 29th, 2009

Sally and Nitish

Rodrigo and Chrstine

Andrea

Andrea

Nitish

Nitish

Hiroya

Hiroya

Rodrigo

Rodrigo

Hiroya, Andrea, Gloria

Hiroya, Andrea, Gloria

Chris (yours truly)

Chris (yours truly)

Apologies to Colleen and Christine, I just didn’t get a good picture of you guys.

A short visit to Arusha School

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

The team spent Wednesday morning visiting the staff and students of the Arusha School, a primary school in the Arusha city center. We paired off into groups of two to lead projects with the students. Hiroya and I partnered up to teach the kids origami, while other folks did science experiments, played marbles, and danced like vegetables. The kids were a joy to work with, all very curious about who the strangers on campus were. By far the most exciting thing for them was not the activities, or the stuff we brought to share, but rather to commandeer our digital cameras and run around campus taking pictures of each other and the stranger gaggle of foreigners, then clustering around to see the result on the LCD screens.

kids with camera

The campus was a collection of classroom buildings, joined by dusty dirt pathways, and the kids wandered in and out of them between class. At times it was hard to determine if class was really in session, as teachers were sometimes absent from rooms, and children aimlessly wandered the grounds, eager to take a photo or to talk about their favorite singer, Chris Brown. An ancient turtle slowly meandered across a patch of grass, older than the buildings surrounding it.

The classrooms at the school were austere and rather worn-down, without any sort of technology like televisions or computers, or even books and basic supplies like paper and pencils. The desks were battered and uncomfortable, simple welded steel and wood devices. The chalkboard chipped and stained with years of accumulated dust and grime. The walls coated in peeling paint and crude graffiti that sixth graders world-wide are compelled to leave behind. The windows had no screens, and had strong iron bars over them, casting a penitentiary mood over the interior.

Hiroya and I were left largely to ourselves to teach some thirty students, all sixth graders, how to fold origami paper cranes. There was no instructor for the class, and we more or less improvised our entire talk. After much too brief introductions, in which I introduced myself as a guy from the same city as Barack Obama, we launched into the origami. I had only learned the pattern an hour before, so I was only slightly less confused as the students. What began as patient listening on part of the students quickly devolved into barely organized chaos, as they clamored after Hiroya and I, shouting “Teacher, teacher! Is this right?” then thrusting some mangled attempt at folding paper into our faces.

We persevered, however, and managed to reign in the chaos. I found a few students who were quick learners, then dispatched them to instruct their classmates. The few hopeless cases I took pity on and just folded the paper for them. No matter how many times I would demonstrate a fold, they simply just stared blankly at me and motion for me to do it for them. After 40 minutes with this one group (we had only planned for only 15 minutes, and to do three classes), they all finally had cranes, some more majestic than others, a few barely recognizable, one torn to shreds, and patiently shared one or two pencils to draw on eyes, the finishing touch on their masterpieces.

Safari njema

Monday, March 23rd, 2009

Last weekend the team traveled to Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire National Park, and Lake Manyara National Park. I’m still sorting through the 1466 photos I took, but for now here are a few highlights.

A place to lay your head

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009

While in Arusha I am staying at the Outpost Lodge. It’s small compound of guesthouses with a swimming pool, decent restaurant, and a well-stocked bar. Most importantly, it’s got wifi covering the public grounds. Three days in I’ve established a nice routine where I’ll return from work at IAA, unload my pack in my room, and grab a beer by the pool. Suddenly Tanzania doesn’t seem so foreign and rough after all.

the room

The room itself is decently appointed. The bed is soft, but smells incredibly musty, a byproduct of hot, humid days in the rainy season. The water is hot when it has to be, and the toilet works with minimal fuss. There’s a nice porch out front, incidentally that is where I sit typing this, which makes for a nice place to sit out the afternoon rainstorms.

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The restaurant and café are unremarkable, but reliable. I’ve sample all varieties of nyama choma they offer: goat, lamb, and beef. I was hoping for more local fare, but it’s solidly Western in its focus. Tonight we’re heading out as a team to dinner for the first time. It is certain to be an interesting experience.

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Sláinte

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009

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Happy St Patrick’s Day from Arusha, Tanzania. No green beer or rivers dyed here, but the spirit lives on.

Day one of work

Monday, March 16th, 2009

Habari

Sunday, March 15th, 2009

coastal

Greetings from Arusha, Tanzania. The trip so far is going wonderfully. My time in Mombasa with Mary was much, much too short. The sights, sounds, and smells were simply overwhelming. Above you can see the view from the beach outside her apartment.

I’m in Arusha, Tanzania now with the rest of the IBM team. Everything so far is going great, and I’m really happy with the other folks. Today is the first day of work, so we’ve all got a bit of first-day-of-school jitters.

Time to Go

Tuesday, March 10th, 2009

Hard to believe that it’s already departure time. Two months ago I couldn’t tell Tanzania from Ghana from South Africa. I’ve so much time reading and learning about Africa, a place I never fathomed I would ever visit on my own, let alone for work.

This afternoon I embark on 25 hours of travel, flying overnight from O’Hare to London Heathrow (9 hours), then to Nairobi (9 hours), then to Mombasa (1 hour). Last time I headed overseas I traveled in style. This time, I’m with the cattle in economy.

A friend passed this along as a going-away present. I leave you to bask in its awesomeness.

Travel lightly

Saturday, March 7th, 2009

First attempt at packing

T minus 2 days and counting.